
Southern Africa • Insider guides • 48 hours in Graaff-Reinet, South Africa
There’s a certain magic to Graaff-Reinet that’s impossible to capture in photos alone. Maybe it’s the way the town sits quietly cradled by the vastness of the Camdeboo, its old porches and church spires quietly hinting at days gone by. Graaff-Reinet, the oldest town in the Eastern Cape province of South Africa, has a character that’s impossible to fake. Over 48 hours, you’ll find yourself switching from art museums to wild Karoo landscapes, trading city slickness for rum tastings and warm, small-town welcomes. Whether you’re here for heritage architecture, contemporary art or simply to soak up the quiet drama of big skies, this is one town that invites you to settle in, unwind and rediscover the simple pleasure of wandering.
15.00
Walking into this grand old dame, you’re greeted by gables, ancient oak trees and a warm hello from the front desk. Drostdy Hotel is arguably Graaff-Reinet’s most storied address, first commissioned in 1806 as the official residence of the magistrate (the Drostdy). The hotel includes several national monument buildings, including historic slave quarters (now the Stretch’s Court suites) and the charming Ferreira House. Throughout the hotel, you’ll find Karoo-inspired art alongside period details like original yellowwood beams and gables softened by gardens. There’s a boutique spa inside a former parsonage, three swimming pools that catch the afternoon light and the rooms – some in repurposed slave quarters – are a lesson in tasteful design with just the right touch of old-world charm.
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Photography courtesy of Drostdy Hotel
16.00
Just a stroll from the hotel, the Hester Rupert Art Museum is small but mighty. Founded in 1966 by Anton Rupert (in honour of his mother, Hester). This art museum occupies a former Dutch Reformed Mission Church built in 1821. The opening of the was instrumental in stopping the demolition of the church, now a provincial heritage site and one of the oldest buildings in town. The museum’s permanent collection focuses on mid-20th-century South African art, with over 100 works by artists such as Alexis Preller, Maggie Laubser and Cecil Skotnes. Guided tours are available and the museum often features rotating exhibitions that support up-and-coming Eastern Cape talent.
Photography courtesy of Hester Rupert Art Museum
17.30
Head to Afrikanis for a rum tasting that’s anything but ordinary. Afrikanis is Graaff-Reinet’s own micro-distillery, founded in 2017 by local entrepreneur Quintin Jansen. The distillery operates out of a restored Karoo house, using copper pot stills for small-batch rum and gin. Afrikanis sources local Karoo botanicals – like wild rosemary and spekboom – for their infused gins, while the rum is aged using American oak barrels for a distinctive, slightly spicy finish. Tastings are relaxed, with Jansen or his team personally guiding you through the distilling process and the unique flavours of their spirits. There is also a shop section where you can grab a bottle to take home or browse other one-of-a-kind Karoo products.
Photography courtesy of Afrikanis
19.00
Dinner at Frontiers is pure Karoo comfort, with a little flair. Frontiers is a true Graaff-Reinet institution, located in a Cape Georgian building dating to the late 1800s. Family-owned by the Meyer family since 2010, the restaurant has a menu anchored in Karoo traditions – slow-roasted lamb shank, ostrich fillet, springbok carpaccio and house-made breads. Step inside and you are immediately greeted with that friendly small-town hospitality. The stylish white-walled interior features pressed-tin ceilings, vintage light fixtures and an open hearth (ideal for chilly Karoo evenings). The Karoo lamb shank that falls off the bone is a must, paired with a glass (or bottle) of red wine from their impressive wine list.
Photography courtesy of Frontiers
09.00
Niblitz is a casual bakery-café started by Lize Grobbelaar and her family in 2017. This is the locals’ go-to for strong coffee and moreish breakfasts – think flaky croissants, just-baked breads and eggs any way you please. The small kitchen prides itself on using free-range eggs and locally milled flour. Try their signature banana bread French toast or opt for the fluffy flapjack stack, served with crispy bacon, local honey, berries and cheese. Grab a table outside if the sun’s shining or relax inside where hand-painted murals, mismatched chairs and shelves stocked with local jams and honey set the scene. Sit back and enjoy the slow mornings that Graaff-Reinet is known for.
Photography courtesy of Niblitz
11.00
Wild, wide-open Karoo landscapes are calling. Take a 40-minute drive to Samara Karoo Reserve. This private 67,000-acre reserve, established in 1997 by Sarah and Mark Tompkins, is committed to ecological restoration. The Tompkins family’s vision was to restore the land to its pre-farming state, reintroducing species like cheetah (reintroduced in 2003 after 125 years), Cape buffalo and black rhino. The reserve works closely with local scientists and conservationists, running anti-poaching and community upliftment programmes. The rangers are storytellers – expect lessons in geology and animal tracking as much as Big Five sightings. Whether you’re in a game vehicle or on a guided bush walk, you’ll leave Samara seeing the Karoo in a whole new light. Samara’s story is one of transformation, proving that even the driest landscapes can flourish.
Photography courtesy of Samara Karoo Reserve
13.00
For lunch, slide into a chair beneath the plane trees at The Coldstream Restaurant. Named after Lieutenant Colonel John Coldstream, a British officer stationed in the region, this restaurant occupies a gracious colonial-era building. The interiors are all exposed beams, heritage tiles and sunlit corners. The outdoor terrace is shaded by ancient plane trees – one of the best spots in town for a long lunch when the weather’s good. The menu focuses on the best of the Karoo, with lamb being the favourite, of course. The Coldstream Restaurant is well known for their legendary Karoo lamb burgers and homemade pies, but our go-to for lunch is the pulled lamb pizza. Their pizza bases are thin and crispy, made from their ciabatta dough, topped with pulled lamb, caramelised onion, camembert and mint sauce.
Photography courtesy of The Coldstream Restaurant
15.00
Take a slow drive 55 kilometres from Graaff-Reinet to Nieu-Bethesda, a tiny village founded in 1875 with an offbeat spirit. The main draw is The Owl House, the fantastical home of outsider artist Helen Martins. Between the 1940s and her death in 1976, Martins transformed her home and garden into a surreal landscape of glass and cement sculptures – owls, camels and mythical figures – assisted by Koos Malgas, a local craftsman. The Owl House is now a museum and national monument, managed by the Owl House Foundation. Nieu-Bethesda itself is fascinating to explore, with its dusty lanes, art studios, the famous Two Goats Deli & Brewery and a slow, unhurried pace. With no street lights or tarred roads, this place is delightfully unplugged.
Photography courtesy of Mukti and The Owl House
19.00
For dinner, Camdeboo Restaurant offers an elegant take on Karoo cuisine inside the Drostdy Hotel. Chef Oscar Foulkes serves up a fresh take on Karoo classics like deboned leg of lamb with rosemary jus, kudu carpaccio and local artisanal cheeses. They also offer a wine list featuring some of South Africa’s most prestigious wineries – ask your server to pair your meal with the perfect wine and you are set for an unforgettable dinner. Interiors are defined by tactile fabrics, muted colours and a collection of Karoo landscape paintings by regional artists. This is the spot for a slower, more sophisticated meal – a chance to unwind after a day of exploring and reflect on everything Graaff-Reinet has offered up so far.
Photography courtesy of Camdeboo Restaurant
09.00
On your final morning, Maria’s Coffee is the place to recharge. Expect strong flat whites, toasted sandwiches and the sort of bakes that feel like home. Beans are sourced from a micro-roaster in the Garden Route and all pastries are made in-house daily. The décor is minimal – recycled wood counters, bare brick walls and a smattering of local art for sale. Maria’s Coffee also runs a small book swap for travellers and a coffee initiative to support the local community. For breakfast, you can’t go wrong with the eggs Benedict, served on a potato rosti with creamed spinach and homemade hollandaise sauce. It’s a slice of Graaff-Reinet’s everyday life and a gentle way to ease into your last day in the Karoo.
Photography courtesy of Maria’s Coffee
10.00
No trip to Graaff-Reinet is complete without standing on the edge of the Valley of Desolation. Just outside town, this dramatic series of dolerite pillars towers above the Camdeboo plains, offering panoramic views that change with every shift of the sun. These sheer dolerite columns, formed over 100 million years ago by volcanic activity, rise nearly 120 metres above the Karoo floor. The site is home to black eagles, kudu and rare succulents. There are two main hiking trails – one short loop to the viewpoints and the longer Crag Lizard Trail for the adventurous. The lookout is one of the Eastern Cape’s most photographed spots – pack your camera and give yourself time to just stare. It’s a reminder that in the Karoo, space and silence are luxuries – and Graaff-Reinet delivers both in abundance.
Photography courtesy of Strandloper Ocean Boutique Hotel
12.00
Before you hit the road, there’s time for one more gem – Hello You, a bright, breezy café opened by the energetic Botha sisters in 2022. The interiors channel a playful, modern vibe with bright accents and lots of greenery alongside exposed beams and warm wood floors. The focus here is on light, contemporary dishes – open sandwiches, salads and fresh-pressed juices. Most of the ingredients are sourced from the Graaff-Reinet farmers’ market and surrounding farms and producers. Quick bite or long lunch, you’ll leave full and happy – and probably already plotting your return.
Photography courtesy of Hello You
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