
Southern Africa • Insider guides • 48 hours in Paternoster, South Africa
There’s something about Paternoster that makes time slow down – in the best way. Just two hours from Cape Town on South Africa’s West Coast, this once-sleepy fishing village has become a magnet for design-conscious travellers, food lovers and slow-living seekers. Whitewashed cottages line the coastline, local fishers haul in the day’s catch and world-class chefs plate it up with foraged dune spinach and seaweed. The charm here is in the contrast – wild Atlantic energy meets laid-back village stillness and rugged natural beauty meets interiors worthy of Kinfolk. We’ve rounded up our favourite spots for 48 hours of exploration, relaxation and discovery. Consider this your definitive Paternoster guide for a weekend well spent.
15.00
Upon arrival at Gonana Guesthouse, you’re welcomed by the soothing scent of indigenous fynbos in bloom and a salty sea breeze. As Paternoster’s first fully sustainable guesthouse, the entire property is solar-powered, water-wise and free of single-use plastics, with furniture and fittings either locally made or upcycled. Swedish owner Jonas Sandström brought a Scandinavian sense of calm to the interiors – soft neutrals, lots of light and handmade textiles like woven baskets and ceramics that nod to African culture. The design is soft and grounding, with a subtle coastal palette that mirrors the dunes and sky outside. Every room has a sea view or private patio and the communal spaces – like the courtyard pool and indoor fireplace lounge – are easy to sink into and relax.
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Photography courtesy of Gonana Guesthouse
16.00
Once you’ve dropped your bags at Gonana, take the sandy path straight down to the water. The beach here feels untouched – all wind-sculpted dunes, smooth rocks and that salty tang that reminds you the Atlantic is close. Head west and stroll towards the broader expanse of the West Coast Peninsula Beach. You’ll pass fishing boats pulled up on the shore, see seagulls swoop for scraps and maybe catch sight of dolphins just offshore. No shoes needed – the water’s cold, but invigorating. We like to time it right and stroll along this beach during golden hour to see the glow as the sun drops behind the horizon. And yes, this stretch of coastline has seen shipwrecks and storms, but today it’s still and gentle – a quiet welcome to your weekend on the edge of the continent.
Photography courtesy of Bartinney Wine Estate
17.30
As golden hour rolls in, The Oyster Lounge is where you want to be. Located at Abalone Hotel & Villas, this spot has some of the best sunset views, elevated just enough to catch both sea and sky as the sun dips into the Atlantic. The interior features breezy white wood with blue-grey accents, floor-to-ceiling windows and flax-woven upholstery. The Oyster Lounge offers an impressive wine list with a premium selection of Champagne and bubbly. If wine isn’t your thing, the cocktails won’t disappoint, especially the seaweed-infused gin cocktail. You’re not here for the scene – you’re here for the setting – refined luxury, soft music and that glow that only happens at the edge of day. Sit back, take a sip and watch the pink sky fade into navy while the lanterns start flickering on.
Photography courtesy of The Oyster Lounge
19.00
Wolfgat doesn’t need much introduction. What began as a humble coastal eatery inside a 130-year-old fisherman’s cottage has become one of the most lauded dining experiences in the world. Chef Kobus van der Merwe’s menu changes with the tides, literally. Expect dune herbs, pickled kelp, wild coastal berries and delicate seafood – all foraged or sourced within a stone’s throw of Paternoster. The seven-course tasting menu is theatrical, each dish arriving like a work of art. Van der Merwe’s food philosophy is rooted in hyper-local and sustainable ingredients that are respectful of the land and sea. Tables are hard to come by (you’ll need to book months in advance), but if you manage to secure one, it’s a once-in-a-lifetime culinary journey that captures the very soul of the West Coast.
Photography courtesy of Wolfgat
09.00
Begin day two at Mondvol, a bright café hidden beneath wild fig trees, where the hiss of espresso machines mingles with the lively conversation of the locals. Set in a whitewashed building just off the main drag, Mondvol’s interior has rustic mismatched farmhouse chairs, fresh flowers on tables and the smell of strong coffee and just-baked bread. The name means mouthful in Afrikaans and that’s exactly what you’ll get. Their sourdough toasties are legendary – for breakfast, our favourite is the bacon and egg option, which also has fresh basil pesto and tomatoes. If you like a sweet breakfast option, opt for their French toast, made from their freshly baked sourdough and topped with homemade berry compote and figs.
Photography courtesy of Mondvol
11.00
Hit the streets and discover the quaint village shops and galleries Paternoster has to offer. One must-visit store is Dispens, a store that has been part of the Paternoster legacy for 40 years. Housed in an old fisherman’s cottage with thick white walls and pops of coastal blue, it’s part lifestyle store, part design sanctuary. Dispens is a stripped-back, architecturally refined space curated with products for those who appreciate slow living and considered design. Expect hand-thrown ceramics, small-batch skincare, woven textiles and a few hard-to-find South African fashion labels. Also, don’t miss Stone Fish Studio for ceramics with character and Paternoster Xpression for art with edge.
Photography courtesy of Dispens
13.00
Paternoster Lodge Restaurant is a stellar spot for lunch, especially if you’re craving pizza with an ocean view. Paternoster Lodge sits on the hill just high enough to give you a full view of the village rooftops spilling into the sea. The casual lunch menu offers pizzas alongside seafood, salads and burgers. We like to take a break from the seafood – a difficult task in a seaside village known for top-notch seafood – and go for a pizza for lunch. One of our favourites is the Boerie pizza with boerewors (sausage), bacon, ham and mushrooms. If you are fully committed to seafood, go for the Local Lekker pizza, topped with calamari strips, mussel meat, shrimp, snoek and prawn meat smothered in a tangy sauce. The deck is where you want to be, glass of Chenin Blanc in hand, watching the fishing boats glide back in.
Photography courtesy of Paternoster Lodge restaurant
15.00
For something unforgettable, swap your sandals for a lifejacket and head out to sea with Kayak Paternoster. Kayak Paternoster is run by locals who know the tides better than Google ever could. They launch right off the beach near Voorstrandt and within minutes, you’re paddling into open water. The two-hour guided trips are easygoing, with a strong focus on the natural environment. Depending on the day (and your luck), you might see Heaviside’s dolphins slicing through the water beside you or a curious seal popping up next to your kayak. On calmer days, the kelp forests below are visible, swaying in sync with the swells. It’s one of the best ways to experience Paternoster’s coastline from a different angle – silent, serene and just a little bit wild.
Photography courtesy of Kayak Paternoster
19.00
As dusk falls, arrive at Leeto – where refined design meets barefoot ease. Set within the Strandloper Ocean Boutique Hotel, the interiors are pared-back and polished – all dune tones, raw wood and linen – while the Atlantic rolls just beyond the glass. Chef Garth Almazan has created a menu that honours its setting – fresh, thoughtful and driven by West Coast produce. A must-try dish is the freshly caught sustainable fish, served with spinach, spring onion and tomato tortellini, oven-baked tomato, sautéed spring vegetables, grilled prawn, sauce vierge and a herb butter sauce. Leeto, loosely translated from the Khoi San word meaning journey, pays homage to the Khoi tribe who roamed the Paternoster coastline and is also representative of Garth’s personal journey as well as the culinary journey that he invites you to experience.
Photography courtesy of Leeto
09.00
For your final morning in Paternoster, head to The Hobnobbery – a local gem with the kind of charm you wish you could bottle. Located in a corner of Paternoster that feels slightly off the beaten track, with a breezy veranda and garden tables scattered with sunlight. Set inside an old fisherman’s cottage, The Hobnobbery feels more like a friend’s cosy living room than a restaurant. The atmosphere is unhurried, the coffee is strong and the breakfast menu does the classics justice. There’s also a shelf of second-hand books, fresh flowers on every table and that unpolished charm that’s increasingly rare to find. If you need a soft landing to start the day after a big dinner the night before, this is it – easygoing, comforting and just the right kind of homely.
Photography courtesy of The Hobnobbery
10.00
Set inside the beautiful grounds of the Strandloper Ocean Boutique Hotel, the Elements Wellness Suite is everything you want from a spa by the sea – minimal, serene and indulgent. The treatment rooms open onto private courtyards, where you can enjoy a massage surrounded by nature – here, the only sound is waves crashing in the distance. Go for the signature Rolling Sand full-body massage – a grounding, full-body ritual that draws inspiration from the region’s natural textures – salt, clay and sea botanicals. Elements Wellness Suite uses Kalahari products made from naturally harvested botanical ingredients, bringing the ancient secrets of Africa to you. The spa itself is beautifully designed – soft neutral tones, raw wood and flickering candles – the perfect final pause before heading out of Paternoster.
Photography courtesy of Strandloper Ocean Boutique Hotel
12.00
End your 48 hours in true West Coast style – barefoot, sun-kissed and seated at Gaaitjie Restaurant. This iconic beachfront restaurant lives inside a restored fisherman’s cottage at the edge of the rocks and it’s the kind of place that defines destination dining. The menu is seasonal, with a focus on seafood done with creative flair. Some of our favourite seafood dishes include the monkfish served with citrus and dhania yoghurt sauce, garlic roasted potatoes, baby carrots, sugar snaps and gremolata, also the grilled masala prawns served on saffron-infused basmati rice mixed with smoked paprika, roasted red onion and peppers and a side of raita (Indian condiment made from salted yoghurt – dahi).
Photography courtesy of Gaaitjie Restaurant
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