Review: Chef’s Warehouse & Canteen

Dublin-born Liam Tomlin has decades of experience as a chef under his belt. Culinary inspiration from travels and global cuisines is reimagined into his own creations, often with bold, unusual flavour combinations.

The à la carte menu at Chefs Warehouse & Canteen offers a curated selection of dishes, drawing influences from a number of different culinary traditions. The well-known Tapas for Two menu – which we decided to try – presents globally inspired small plates designed for sharing.

A strong start

The first course is a beautifully presented venison tartare, made with kudu (a South African antelope), served with shiitake mushroom and celeriac. It tastes as good as it looks and does not disappoint two tartare enthusiasts. This strong opening also includes delicately seared tuna with radish and teriyaki sauce, which is light, balanced and beautifully prepared.

Fresh meets rich

We continue with sweet, juicy heirloom tomatoes on a bed of rich, creamy burrata, garnished with fresh basil and a crunchy piece of bread. It’s a true Mediterranean summer classic that, while neither intricate nor advanced, is always a winner in our view.

We’re also treated to slow-baked pork belly with perfect crackling and smoky chipotle, complemented by charred corn and a refreshing dash of lime.

Spice and comfort

The ensuing courses follow in the same vein. The leek and onion risotto is delightfully creamy and rich.

The fried squid, combined with chorizo, avocado, and a touch of sambal oelek, delivers a beautiful crunch and well-balanced heat.

A surprise finish

Although some dishes are on the smaller side (by Cape Town standards), we both felt well-fed and perfectly content by this stage. After eight courses, we thought the show was over – but much to our delight, the roast lamb loin with figs and chimichurri (which we had forgotten about) was served, alongside a tandoori line fish with raita, tikka and beautifully deep-fried onion bhajis.